Succulent cuttings are either taken from the mother plant or, if a plant is old or root-bound, can be taken by cutting the head off the main stem and starting over. (Leslie Crawford)

Succulents are the most satisfying plants in my garden. In San Diego County, there are very few varieties we can’t grow, and every trip to the nursery is an adventure, especially with new varieties being introduced all the time. Succulents don’t need much to grow well. They are forgiving if neglected, and they are easy to propagate.

Having a few pointers can make the difference between success and failure in starting new plants. Succulents need the right conditions to grow. All cactuses are succulents, but not all succulents are cactuses, so it’s important not to cook them to death. Master Gardeners Laura and Don Starr remind people that succulents are summer growers and benefit from weekly summer water — more often during a heat wave. Water in the cool of morning and avoid getting water on the rosettes of echeverias and other flat or broad-leafed varieties. Also, during these hot months, move succulents in containers into an area with some midday and afternoon shade.

Different succulents require different techniques for propagation. Simplified, there are three ways to expand your garden from the succulents you already have: pups, leaf propagation and stem cuttings.

Pups are new plants growing off the side of an existing plant.

Leaf propagation occurs when a leaf gets broken off a stem and a new plant emerges from the base of the leaf. Starting succulents by leaf typically takes a while to form a viable plant, so patience is a virtue. It’s not my preferred method of starting new plants, but having me, a dog, two cats and possums crashing around in my small yard creates the opportunity.

Stem cuttings are the most common method of succulent propagation. Cuttings are either taken from the mother plant or, if a plant is old or root bound, can be taken by cutting the head off the main stem and starting over. A bonus of taking cuttings is that it will encourage a healthy mother plant to grow more, so it’s the gift that keeps on giving.

Cuttings can be left unplanted for a couple of weeks to let the wound callous over, or planted right away. If planting the same day, the cuttings don’t need to be watered immediately. Rooting hormone may be used but is not necessary.

Aloes and haworthias multiply by producing pups that can be pulled from the mother plant and replanted, since they don’t propagate by leaf. The leaves of echeverria, sedum, crassula and kalanchoe take time to grow, but stem cuttings are faster. Propagate aeoniums by cuttings. Don’t let the fancy names scare you. All the good nurseries label their succulents on the pot with the scientific name and the variety. When I’m plant shopping, I always have my phone handy to Google more information if I need it.

Succulent cuttings are more delicate and require a bit of TLC. Master Gardener Laura Eubanks places her succulent cuttings on top of the soil underneath the vegetables in her garden. She says “non-rooted cuttings are already a little stressed,” so her cuttings are shaded, and since the veggies get a lot of water, the cuttings get the moisture they need. Good drainage is always important, so you don’t waterlog your babies!

My gardening method can sometimes be called “Survival of the Fittest.” I’ve had my share of failures in the garden, succulent propagation included. It happens to everyone, but considering what I started with and what is now growing in my garden, I’d say I’ve been very successful.

The UCCE Master Gardener Program of San Diego County will hold its annual Fall Plant Sale and Market Place from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sept. 30 at Casa del Prado in Balboa Park.

Cutting a stem in the optimal location will yield better results. Here’s a general guide to succulent cutting points based on Leslie Crawford’s experience. Remember, it’s a guide, but ultimately nature calls the shots.

A: Cutting this high on the stem is known as “pinching out.” The reason to pinch this high on the plant stem is to create growth for multiple cuttings or to have the plants develop into a multi-headed plant. Cutting this high will force side stems to grow that will be viable cuttings themselves once they’ve grown out. The top part that is cut off is not a viable cutting and will not root, so just throw it away.

B: Cutting here can produce a new plant from the top part, but not always, and force new shoots to grow off the stem. This method works best if a few leaves are left on the stem, allowing it to recover more efficiently, and produce new stems.

C: A cut made here to the halfway point of C and D will result in a plant that will root easily. The stem most likely won’t develop any shoots and can slowly wither down.

D: Cutting lower on the stem creates a longer stem but takes much longer to establish roots. The lower stem might produce a few shoots but can also wither down.

E: Cutting further down the stem is not recommended because the head will have to work hard to get established and the lower stem is likely to die.

Crawford is a San Diego Master Gardener.

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